Horses Health - Toxic Plants Part 3

Plants That Can Seriously Damage Your Horses Health

It really is lucky that horses don't find most these plants very palatable. However, there are exceptions and sometimes horses will eat highly toxic or lethal doses, even when forage is adequate. That's why summer is a good time to explore your horse pasture to be sure toxic plants are kept out of your horse's diet. Remember that some of the plants I have covered are evergreen, so they will be around in the fall, winter and spring too.

This issue will cover:

• Fiddleneck and Related Plants
• Crotalaria Species
• Senecio Species
• Chokecherry and Wild Cherry (Prunus)
• Sorghum and Sudan Grass
• Bermuda Grass
• Black Locust
• Oak Trees

Again I need you to know that I have not written the following – I am not a Vet or a plants man, so I have copied this information simply to make it easy for you to read. I would not re-write it because I was afraid of getting something wrong that may prove fatal to your horse, so I make no apologies for copying this.

Fiddleneck and related plants

Several members of the amsinckia species have been linked to causing cirrhosis of the liver. These plants include fiddleneck, tarweed, yellow burr weed, fireweed and buckthorn, which are predominantly found in the semi-arid regions of Idaho,Washington, Oregon and California. The plants appear in late winter and early spring. The seeds are the most toxic parts of these plants and fortunately the mature plants are unpalatable to most horses. Most instances of poisoning occur when mature amsinckia species are bailed in early cuttings of hay or when contaminated grain was threshed for horses. Some poisonings have occurred when horses were pastured on wheat stubble in contaminated fields.

Cirrhosis causes hardening and eventual metabolic shutdown of the liver. The liver can no longer filter out toxic wastes which, among other things, produces disturbances of the nervous system. Affected horses have been known to walk aimlessly for miles, running into objects in their path rather than go around them, pressing their heads into solid objects and occasionally becoming frenzied when they cannot continue. Oftentimes death results from the horse getting hopelessly entangled in a fence or literally walking over the edge of a cliff or ravine.

Other behavioral abnormalities include recklessness, charging, lack of coordination, circling, staggering, "dragging" of the hind limbs, which have been described as the "sleepy staggers". The horse may also appear listless, hang its head and acting sluggish or depressed. Signs of colic may be present, which may include straining, diarrhea and rectal prolapse. Small foul smelling ulcers may appear in the mouth.

The chronic patient will become a poor keeper, show yellow membranes around the eyes and mouth, produce a rough coat and eventually become anemic and die. Fortunately healthy horses need to consume amsinckia plants over a period of time before enough liver damage occurs to produce symptoms. Unfortunately, once cirrhosis of the liver develops, it is for all practical purposes irreversible.

Crotalaria Species
Crotalaria, predominantly found in the south and southeast, has been the cause of many horse losses. Known as wild pea, rattle box and rattle weed, crotalaria has been intentionally planted as an agricultural cover crop to enrich the soil from the Atlantic seaboard, west into Texas. Two species, crotalaria sagittalis and crotalaria spectabilis, are particularly toxic and produce the same effects as fiddleneck.

Senecio Species
Senecios comprise one of the largest genre of plants in the midwest and western US.Not all species are poisonous, and of those which are, only a few contain enough alkaloids to cause problems in horses. Those which do can produce the same kind illness as fiddleneck. Senecio jacobaea is particularly toxic. In the Nebraska region, "walking disease" is caused by senecio. In the Pacific Northwest, the disease is commonly called "Hard Liver Disease" or "Walla Walla Walking Disease."

Other species such as ragwort, common groundsel and "Stinking Willie" are generally considered toxic, however their alkaloid content seems to be less than senecio jacobaea.

Chokecherry and Wild Cherry (Prunus)
Chokecherries, growing in bushes up to 12 feet high, are popular for their jelly producing berries. They are common throughout the US, often found along roadsides or creek bottoms. Unfortunately the leaves, which are particularlytoxic when stressed or wilted, as well as the bark from chokecherries and wild cherries are cyanide producing. Death in horses can occur literally in minutes after the horse has ingested the leaves. The horse will appear to have trouble breathing, show flared nostrils and lose bowel and urinary control. Lack of coordination and trembling may also appear, along with agitation. A severely poisoned horse will drop to the ground, kick a few times, then die. Poisoned horses can be saved, however usually veterinary help cannot arrive in time as the effects of cyanide poisoning progress rapidly.

Sorghum and Sudan Grass
Sorghum and Sudan Grass, both of which can be effective as livestock feed when grown, harvested and cured correctly, can produce cyanide poisoning when improperly managed. After a hard frost or trampling, prussic acid can build up in new growth which grazing horses are likely to seek out. The effects of this poisoning is the same as with choke cherries.

Other problems associated with grazed or improperly baled sorghum and sudan grasses include urinary tract complications, causing thick and viscous urine and bladder infections. Signs of such problems may appear as buildup inside the horse's hind legs. If left untreated, the infection can become fatal. Pregnant mares may abort or give birth to deformed foals.

There are species of sorghum which are developed especially for animal feed, and we have fed them with great success. However, when feeding sorghum to horses, one should be certain what kind of sorghum is being grown and that the grower knows how to properly manage, cure and bale the crop. Unless you really know what you are doing, letting your horse graze on growing sorghum or sudan grass can be a risky proposition.

Bermuda Grass
Berumuda grass can be good feed for horses, however in certain climates a harmful fungus called ergot can be present and which appears as small brown or black nodules on the bermuda grass or dallis grass seed heads. When consumed, a condition known as "Bermuda Grass Shakes" or "Dallis Grass Tremors" can occur, producing such symptoms as lack of coordination, tremors, strange head movements and tongue rolling, and in severe cases, paralysis.

Once the tainted forage is discontinued, horses may recover rapidly, virtually overnight to several days. Pregnant mares, however, may abort.

Black Locust
Horses tied to black locust trees or black locust posts and who have chewed on the bark can become poisoned, becoming very ill in just a few hours. Symptoms include loss of appetite, general weakness and depression.Symptoms of a mild colic may also be present. Horses can ingest enough bark to prove fatal, although most recover after several days or weeks.

Oak Trees Horses have been known to binge on acorns, particularly if they are hungry and are not used to having them around. Acorns and many oak leaves are high in tannin. It is relatively easy for a horse to ingest several pounds of acorns in a relatively short period of time leading to an unfortunate overdose. Well, that’s it from me on poisonous plants. I would suggest that you keep all 3 of these newsletters handy just in case. In fact I have printed them off and am going on a walking tour of my fields and local pastures and see what I can spot that is potentially dangerous. Then I will report it to owners, and if its in my pastures, take appropriate action to ensure that my horses aren’t hurt by it. I would suggest that you find time to do the same.

From the author: Roger Bourdon has written a book on Introduction To Horsebackriding and Horse's Health. (Article Adapted by All About Horses)

Learn All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.

• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!
  

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Horses Health - Structure of a Horse Hoof

Horses Health Matters. Knowing the proper names of the parts of the horse hoof may help you diagnose a problem quicker.

You call the Vet because your horse has a hoof problem, and he asks for some information. What do you say? Do you know how to describe the parts of the horse hoof so that he might recognize the problem before he even gets there – thus saving a call out fee?

An army may march on its stomach but a horse definitely marches on its hooves. What are the different parts of the hoof called.

I had the vet out the other day doing a routine check on my old boy and he had a good poke around in the hooves. Although he said they were in good shape for the horse’s age, it did make me wonder how much I knew about the hoof, because he started using terms that I didn’t recognize. So I had a little anatomy lesson on the spot but he did mention that few private owners (and I’m not talking riding stables here) could describe a hoof problem in other than the simplest terms, which meant he could seldom diagnose without a visit.

A Horses Health Lesson For You -What are the different parts of the horse hoof called.

The Wall

The walls are the protection for the softer internal tissues of the horse hoof- it’s like the human toe nail. They also provide grip on different terrains. They are elastic and very tough keratin-based substance, similar to a Teflon layer, the thickness is approximately 6 mm - 12 mm. It takes 9-12 months for the hoof to grow from the coronary band to the toe. In order for the horn to grow correctly and form a healthy foot, the horse must be provided with a good diet and be in good health. These factors must be checked if the horn starts to become brittle and weak or if the foot looks badly formed. A feed supplement of biotin may be helpful to promote good horn growth.

Three different layers make up the Wall: the pigmented layer, the water line and the white line.

The coronet band at the top of the hoof wall actually grows this pigmented (colored) layer of horn that makes up the outer wall of the hoof. Although this layer is for protection it does not like sustained contact with the ground, which can cause it to break and flake away.

The water line is built up by the coronet and by the wall's corium (the living tissue immediately beneath the walls). It is thicker than the pigmented layer and increases its thickness, as it gets further down and away from the coronet band. Unlike the pigmented layer, this one is much hardier and is very resistant to contact to the ground so it is for support and protection of the underside of the hoof.

The white line is the inner layer of the wall. It is softer and fibrous in structure. Its color is yellowish. You can see it, in the underside of the healthy horse hoof, as a thin line, joining the sole and the walls. Since the white line is softer than both the walls and the sole, it wears fast where it appears on the surface and it appears as a subtle groove between the sole and the walls, with some debris or sand inside.

The three layers of the wall merge in a single mass and they grow downwards together. If the wall doesn't wear naturally, from sufficient movement on rough ground, then it will over-grow, much like a toenail that is not filed down and it then becomes prone to breakage. This means that a healthy hoof will self-trim, by breaking or chipping off. When a horseshoe is applied, it is fixed to the wall. The nails that are used to hold the shoe in place are hammered in at an angle so that the points come out of the front of the hoof wall.

The Frog

The frog is a triangular structure clearly visible if you look at the underside of the horse hoof- it’s like the human fingertip. It extends forwards across about two-thirds of the sole. Its thickness grows from the front to the back and, at the back; it merges with the heel periople. Down its middle, it has a groove, the central groove (sulcus) that extends up between the bulbs.

It is dark gray-blackish in color and of a rubbery consistency, which makes it great to act as a shock absorber and grip tool, on hard, smooth ground. In the stabled horse, it doesn't wear but it degrades with bacterial and fungal activity to an irregular, soft, slashed surface. In the free-roaming horse, it hardens into a callous consistency, with a near-smooth surface.

The Sole

The sole has a whitish-yellowish, sometimes grayish color. It covers the whole space from the perimeter of the wall to the bars and the frog, on the underside of the hoof. Its deep layer has a compact, waxy character and is called the 'live’ sole. Its surface will vary according to the type of ground the horse spends his time on. If there is no contact, as in shod hooves or when the walls are too long or the movement poor, the lower surface of the sole has a crumbly consistency and it is easily abraded (scratched off) it with a hoof pick. However, it has a very hard consistency, with a smooth, bright surface, when there is a consistent, active contact with the ground. The front portion, beneath the front of the pedal bone, is called the 'sole callus'.

The Bars

They are inward folds of the wall, starting from the heels at an abrupt angle. The strong structure built up by the extremity of the heel and of the bar is named the 'heel buttress'. The sole between the heel walls and the bars is called the 'seat of corn' and it is a very important landmark used by natural hoof trimmers to evaluate the correct heel height. The bars have a three-layer structure, just like the walls. When overgrown, they bend outwards and cover the lower surface of the sole.

Coronary band

You’ll recall this is found at the top of the horse hoof and is responsible for creating the horn that makes up the hoof wall.

Periople

This is the outer layer of the horse hoof that forms a protective covering on the hoof wall. It is responsible for regulating moisture content in the horn, secreted from the perioplic ring above the coronet.

Sensitive sole:

This is found underneath the pedal bone, within the insensitive sole. It produces the new cells that replace lost layers of the insensitive sole.

Digital cushion:


The digital cushion is found between the pedal bone and deep flexor tendon. An elastic, fibrous pad absorbs concussion from ground impact. It also helps to push blood back up the leg.

Lateral cartilages

These are attached to the pedal bone and serve to protect the coffin joint. They also help absorb concussion.

Laminae:

The insensitive laminae are supportive structures that attach to the hoof wall and interlock with the sensitive laminae. The sensitive laminae then attach and support the pedal bone. The divide between sensitive and insensitive laminae can been seen as a white line on the sole of the foot.

Conformation

This is term for the basic shape and size for a horse hoof and how fit it is for its purpose. It’s extremely important, as the feet are obviously essential to the horse

They should be even and round in shape and in proportion with the rest of the horse. The fronts should be of equal size and shape and so should the hinds.

The front feet should slope forwards and be at a 45 degree angle to the ground, and on through the fetlock and pastern. The hind feet should be at an angle of 50-55 degrees to the ground. The hoof wall should be smooth and free from cracks. Any lines could indicate poor nutrition or past cases of laminitis.

Poor conformation in the feet can result in strains to tendons and ligaments, tripping and bruising. Many such problems can be improved by a good farrier and over a period of time.


This article was written By Roger Bourdon, Author of e-book Introduction To Horsebackriding
(Adapted by All About Horses)

Learn All About Horses Here:

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder ExposedLearn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.

• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!
  

What You Really Need To Know To Feel Safe And Confident The First Time You Sit In The Saddle……

If you are just starting out with horseback riding, you want to focus on the information you need to get you in the saddle and to keep you there safely as you ride. And let's face it, when we are learning something new it is so difficult to take in all the information we are given verbally. If you have it written down, and can read it through several times before you get to the first lesson, how much better would that make you feel? Wouldn’t it be great to be able to take what the Instructor is saying because it is familiar to you – so that you can concentrate on staying in the saddle rather than the instructions that are being thrust at you so quickly. So many instructions all at once can send you into information overload, and then you can't remember a word of it and feel silly – does this make you feel like a failure before you even start? I know it does with me.

After all, how many of you passed an exam or learned to drive without reading the manuals first? Did you pick up a chisel to do woodworking without first getting a book to show you how? This applies to nearly everything you can think of that requires some skill to master. So surely you need to prepare for your horseback riding lessons in the same way to make your new hobby a really enjoyable success right from the start.

Horse Training Secrets Revealed - Part 5

HOW TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU

Turn him into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out, with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold of his halter and turn him towards you, at the same time touching him lightly over the hips with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable, rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice as you lead him, COME ALONG BOY! or use his name instead of boy, if you choose.

Every time you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to escape the whip and be caressed, and you can make him follow you around without taking hold of the halter.

If he should stop and turn from you, give him a few cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip--in twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable.

After you have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a small lot and train him; and from thence you can take him into the road and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.

The author then goes on teach how to make your horse stand without holding. Find out all this and more - just order now for immediate download. Order today and get 3 free bonuses. Bonus 2 includes How To Train And Break Colts.

How to Break and Train Colts - bonus 2 gift is worth $19, and also free when you grab your copy of Horse Secrets Revealed today, describes a very effective method for properly breaking and training colts raised on the average farm.

Photographs accompany the text and the principle element behind the methods that are described in this book is "kindness to the horse" - this is ALL about getting the horse to do what you want, while being gentle with him.

Here's just some of what you'll discover inside:

The 2 main factors you have to deal with when training a horse.

How to stop obstinacy when training your colt.

The one thing you MUST do before approaching a horse.

The best ages for the phases of breaking and training.

How to handle older, unbroken horses.

How to minimize the risk of bucking when you ride him.

How to cure balkiness.

How to throw a horse.

The most valuable gait for your horse to do and how to do it.

And so much more!

Extracted from the ebook How to Tame and Train Wild and Vicious Horses (part 5)
© Copyright trainwildhorses 2005, All rights reserved.

Learn All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast! 
• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!
  
• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Horse Training Secrets Revealed - Part 3

HOW TO LEAD THE COLT INTO THE STABLE AND HITCH HIM WITHOUT HAVING HIM PULL ON THE HALTER

You should lead the broke horse into the stable first, and get the colt, if you can, to follow in after him. If he refuses to go, step up to him, taking a little stick or switch in your right hand; then take hold of the halter close to his head with your left hand, at the same time reaching over his back with your right arm so that you can tap him on the opposite side with your switch; bring him up facing the door, tap him lightly with your switch, reaching as far back with it as you can.

This tapping, by being pretty well back, and on the opposite side, will drive him ahead, and keep him close to you, then by giving him the right direction with your left hand you can walk into the stable with him.

I have walked the colts into the stable this way, in less than a minute, after men had worked at them half an hour, trying to pull them in.

If you cannot walk him it at once this way, turn him about and walk him round in every direction, until you can get him up to the door without pulling at him. Then let him stand a few minutes, keeping his head in the right direction with the halter, and he will walk in, in less than ten minutes.

Never attempt to pull the colt into the stable; that would make him think at once that it was a dangerous place, and if he was not afraid of it before, he would be then. Besides we don't want him to know anything about pulling on the halter. Colts are often hurt, and sometimes killed, by trying to force them into the stable; and those who attempt to do it in that way, go into an up-hill business, when a plain smooth road is before them.

If you want to hitch your colt, put him in a tolerably wide stall which should not be too long, and should be connected by a bar or something of that kind to the partition behind it; so that, after the colt is in he cannot get far enough back to take a straight, backward pull on the halter; then by hitching him in the center of the stall, it would be impossible for him to pull on the halter, the partition behind preventing him from going back, and the halter in the center checking him every time he turns to the left or right.

In a state of this kind you can break every horse to stand hitched by a light strap, anywhere, without his ever knowing any thing about pulling.

If you have broke your horse to lead, and have learned him the use of the halter (which you should always do before you hitch him to any thing), you can hitch him in any kind of a stall, and give him something to eat to keep him up to his place for a few minutes at first and there is not one colt in fifty that will pull on his halter.

The author then mentions what you should always do before you hitch your horse to anything and then goes on to look at the kind of bit to use and how to accustom your horse to it. To keep reading click here to get the book now.

Otherwise, part 4 we’ll be looking at “How to Ride the Colt” where you'll learn what to do to get a horse started (and it doesn't involve digging your heels into the horse's side), how to prevent the horse from jumping ahead, rearing up or running away and more. Look out for the email with the link! 'til then, take care,

Craig

Extracted from the ebook How to Tame and Train Wild and Vicious Horses (part 3)
© Copyright trainwildhorses 2005, All rights reserved.

Learn All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Horse Training Secrets Revealed - Part 2

HOW TO STABLE THE COLT WITHOUT TROUBLE

The next step will be, to get the horse into a stable or shed. This should be done as quietly as possible, so as not to excite any suspicion in the horse of any danger befalling him.

The best way to do this, is to lead a gentle horse into the stable first and hitch him, then quietly walk around the colt and let him go in of his own accord. It is almost impossible to get men, who have never practiced on this principle, to go slow and considerate enough about it. They do not know that in handling a wild horse, above all other things, is that good old adage true, that "haste makes waste;" that is, waste of time, for the gain of trouble and perplexity.

One wrong move may frighten your horse, and make him think it is necessary to escape at all hazards for the safety of his life, and thus make two hours work of a ten minutes job; and this would be all your own fault, and entirely unnecessary; for he will not run unless you run after him, and that would not be good policy, unless you knew that you could outrun him; or you will have to let him stop of his own accord after all. But he will not try to break away, unless you attempt to force him into measures.

If he does not see the way at once, and is a little fretful about going in, do not undertake to drive him, but give him a little less room outside, by gently closing in around him. Do not raise your arms, but let them hang at your side; for you might as well raise a club. The horse has never studied anatomy, and does not know but they will unhinge themselves and fly at him.

If he attempts to turn back, walk before him, but do not run; and if he gets past you, encircle him again in the same quiet manner, and he will soon find that you are not going to hurt him; and you can soon walk so close around him that he will go into the stable for more room, and to get farther from you.

The author then tells you what to do as soon as the horse is in and what you should make sure of so your horse can adapt to the initial confinement. If you'd like to know more then just download the book now. Buy the e-book today and receive 3 free bonuses with a 8 week guarantee!

Otherwise, tomorrow we’ll be looking at “How to Lead The Colt into the Stable and Hitch Him Without Having Him Pull on the Halter” and you'll find out how the author has "walked the colts into the stable...in less than a minute, after men had worked at them half an hour, trying to pull them in." Keen to find out how?

Keep a look out for the email with the link and I'll see you then.

Take care,

Craig

Extracted from the ebook How to Tame and Train Wild and Vicious Horses (part 2)
© Copyright trainwildhorses 2005, All rights reserved.

Learn All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Horse Training Secrets Revealed - Part 1

THE THREE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF MY THEORY

Founded on the Leading Characteristics of the Horse.

FIRST--That he is so constituted by nature that he will not offer resistance to any demand made of him which he fully comprehends, if made in a way consistent with the laws of his nature.

SECOND--That he has no consciousness of his strength beyond his experience, and can be handled according to our will, without force.

THIRD--That we can, in compliance with the laws of his nature by which he examines all things new to him, take any object, however frightful, around, over or on him, that does not inflict pain, without causing him to fear.

FIRST PRINCIPLE:

To take these assertions in order, I will first give you some of the reasons why I think he is naturally obedient, and will not offer resistance to anything fully comprehended.

The horse, though possessed of some faculties superior to man's being deficient in reasoning powers, has no knowledge of right or wrong, of free will and independent government, and knows not of any imposition practiced upon him, however unreasonable these impositions may be. Consequently, he cannot come to any decision what he should or should not do, because he has not the reasoning faculties of man to argue the justice of the thing demanded of him. If he had, taking into consideration his superior strength, he would be useless to man as a servant. Give him mind in proportion to his strength, and he will demand of us the green fields for an inheritance, where he will roam at leisure, denying the right of servitude at all.

God has wisely formed his nature so that it can be operated upon by the knowledge of man according to the dictates of his will, and he might well be termed an unconscious, submissive servant. This truth we can see verified in every day's experience by the abuses practiced upon him. Any one who chooses to be so cruel, can mount the noble steed and run him 'till he drops with fatigue, or, as is often the case with more spirited, fall dead with the rider. If he had the power to reason, would he not vault and pitch his rider, rather than suffer him to run him to death? Or would he condescend to carry at all the vain impostor, who, with but equal intellect, was trying to impose on his equal rights and equally independent spirit? But happily for us, he has no consciousness of imposition, no thought of disobedience except by impulse caused by the violation of the law of nature. Consequently when disobedient it is the fault of man.

Then, we can but come to the conclusion, that if a horse is not taken in a way at variance with the law of his nature, he will do anything that he fully comprehends without making any offer of resistance.

The author then goes on to look at the second and third principle in detail. If you want to read more then get the book now. If you buy today you'll get 3 bonus books for free!

Part 2 we’ll be looking at “How to Stable a Colt Without Trouble”.You'll find out who to enlist to best help you accomplish this quickly and easily, why you shouldn't raise your arms at a horse and more.

Take care and I'll see you then!
Craig


Extracted from the ebook How to Tame and Train Wild and Vicious Horses (part 1)
© Copyright trainwildhorses 2005, All rights reserved.

Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Questions To Ask When Buying A Horse

Once you have your criteria and located some potential horses for sale, it's time for questions.... The answers will help you decide if this horse is worth going out to view.

More questions!! This time to ask the owner over the phone. Things to find out are:

• Whether this horse is suitable for a beginner. Most people will be honest here, not wanting to endanger someone.
• The horse's age, height and build. Does it match your criteria?
• Color and markings, if these are important to you.
• What sort of temperament he/she has. Quiet, calm, bombproof, gentle.
• If she is a mare, what to expect with any mood swings, if any.
• The suitability for your chosen horse activity. This is an opinion only, and should be taken with a grain of salt unless there is a solid reason for that opinion. For example, if you wanted a horse for jumping and the owner advised you this horse always refuses...
• Any vices or bad habits. Charging, biting, kicking, bolting, bucking, rearing. Any of these and you can thank the owner for their time and end the call.
• Easy to catch and shoe and trailer and worm? A horse that won't do these is a pain in the behind and you should consider carefully if you want to put up with these bad habits.
• Any fears ie dogs, bicycles, cars. These aren't ideal either.
• Any health issues. So you can research if an issue would be a problem for you.
• Any soundness issues or physical limitations. A vet check will show these up, but why visit a horse that is known to be very lame?
• What the horse has been trained and used for, now and with previous owners. Has the horse had experience in what you want to do? You'll have a lot more fun on a horse that can teach you rather than the other way around.
• How long the horse has been in work (ridden regularly) and has it been in work recently. Some horses aren't trained until later in life. Sometimes horses are trained and worked and then put in a paddock and left for years.
• Any quirks of personality to be aware of. Just so you know.
• Why it is being sold. You may not get an honest answer, but it's worth asking anyway.

Written by HorseTrainingSuccess.com. They sell comprehensive ebooks on training horses.

Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Buying A Pony Or Horse

On The Day Of Viewing So you're buying a pony or horse. You've weeded out the unsuitables over the phone and found the perfect one that seems to fit your criteria. Obviously the next step is to go and have a look... Buying a pony or horse is buyer beware. Not to make you frightened, but it is your responsibility to make sure the horse you choose is what you expected you were getting. Check all claims made about an animal out for yourself. Make sure you ask these questions when buying a pony or horse. To start with, when buying a pony or a horse take someone you know who knows horses. If you don't know anyone who will volunteer their time, consider paying a trainer or riding instructor for their time as it will be money well spent. There is so much to take in when viewing a prospective horse that many eyes alone will give a more accurate picture. Different people will 'see' different things. A beginner may see an affectionate good looking animal. An experienced horse person may observe an arthritic joint and a tendency towards pushiness. Also on a general note, take lots of pictures. Consider making notes. If you have particular questions in mind, write them down beforehand and note the answers when you ask. This way you'll cover everything and remember a lot. When Buying A Pony or Horse Consider... Health. Although the domain of health is for the experts, look for a general impression of wellness. In a well lit place, is the coat shiny and smooth to the touch? Are ribs showing? Does he have a pot belly? Are the hooves broken, cracked or poorly cared for? Is the horse alert or half asleep? Are the eyes bright and clear? The ears scanning for sounds? Temperament. How is this horse around other horses? Watching him being walked past other horses as he is brought in from the pasture or out from the stable will give you and idea of how he relates to other horses. Does he kick or bite? This might be forgivable when directed at other horses, but not at humans. Do not buy a horse with bad manners. Training. Ask for and watch the horse being caught, led, tied and groomed, including having all hooves picked out. Have a demonstration of the horse being put on a trailer. Watch the horse being saddled and mounted. In short, ask to see everything demonstrated that you'd do with this horse yourself. How does he behave? Riding. Let the owner ride first and put the horse through all it's paces and special skills. How smooth are the horse's responses? Are there any signs of resistance or fighting? Head tossing, leaning on the bit, laziness, tugging? Your Turn. Ask your knowledgable friend to try the horse out and then you have a go too. Watch for how the horse reacts to you. Go back to the basics and try all the everyday stuff as well. Leading, grooming, hoof handling, saddling up. Paperwork. If this horse is a registered breed, ask to see the papers. If the horse does not behave, that's kicking, biting, rearing, bucking, bolting etc then don't buy it. Did you hear that? No matter how stunning you think this horse may be! Don't buy it. Yes you want to feel a strong commitment to your animal AND you also want a well-behaved animal, especially if this is your first horse. Don't settle on a gorgeous looking bucker. It's not worth it, and the well behaved ones come in 'stunning' too. It can be worth making a second visit. Ask the questions you forgot the first time. Repeat the same questions from the first time. Do the answers match? Is the horse behaving in the same manner? Written by HorseTrainingSuccess.com. They sell comprehensive ebooks on training horses. Learn More All About Horses Here: Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless. Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast! The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more! Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

Warning - Laminitis in your horses hooves?

Think your horse has laminitis? You need to know or at worst your horse could die! Although similar, Founder and Laminitis are not considered to be the same thing. Founder is the end result of laminitis and is defined as either a rotation of the coffin bone downward or a general sinking of the coffin bone downward. Treatment for both Laminitis and Founder are both explored in the content of this one of a kind e-book Liminitis And Founder Exposed

• The key factors that cause laminitis (if you know these you can help prevent future occurrences)
• The 14 critical things you need to do (according to a veterinary expert)
• What NEVER to do if your horse has laminitis (especially with regard to food and exercise)
• How to carry out initial diagnostic checks
• The 7 point feed plan for laminitic horses
• How your farrier can help with your lame horses foot care
• Why what your horse eats is so important (this is critical)
• How to make your lame horse more comfortable (including complementary treatments)
• Zero risk to you - 100% No Questions Asked MONEY BACK GUARANTEE
• A complete guide to diet and nutrition for lame horses
• Why laminitis needs your URGENT action

Buy Liminitis And Founder Exposed right now and get 2 great bonuses for FREE!

Bonus #1

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• Understand Homeopathy
• Homeopathic Principles and First aid for your Horse
• Individual Treatment Plans
• Guided Techniques and Application
• Correct Dosage Selection and Treatment
• Specific Remedies and their Uses
• The Treatment of Chronic and Acute Conditions
• Using Homeopathic Remedies for Wounds, Sprains, Strains, Insect Bites, Inflammation, Colic, Detoxing your horse and more.
• Correct Care of your Homeopathic Remedies
• Important Safety features when using Homeopathics on your Horse

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Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• The Original Book of Horse Treats offers fun treat for horses. Recipes you can make at home for your Horse. Stuffed molasse apples, birthday cones, soups snacks, desserts and much more fun horsey food! All tried and true at the barn! Also includes a section on bran mashes, hoof oil, fly spray, and electrolytes!

Do You Use Treats For Horses When Training Them?

Something I have been wanting to get in a discussion with other horse owners is how they use treats for horses. What I am getting at is do you utilize treats in your training? I think a lot of people are inclined to do this because that is how many people train dogs to do things (at least at first). You get a dog to sit and then give him a treat. Later after he is learned the behavior then maybe you aren’t using treats anymore.

So the other day I was taping Eric at a lesson. He is against using treats for horses. He made a remark that stuck with me, which was that the alpha mare or stud in a wild herd of horses doesn’t use treats for horses to do what they want (obviously). So how do they get the horses to do what they want? By using body language. Eric’s training methods are pretty much based on teaching people how to utilize body language to communicate with their horses.

I often see people using treats for horse in an attempt to calm them in a stressful situation. For instance, I have seen people standing their with a bucket of treats when a difficult horse is getting his feet trimmed. They sit there continually feeding the horse treats hoping it won’t kick the farrier or freak out.

Eric Bravo says this ends up teaching the horse to be nervous. In other words the horse is in a state where he is acting all wiggy and here we are giving him treats. Does the horse think of this as telling him that he is supposed to behave that way?

One thing I can say is that the behavior of my horses has improved a lot since I have cut back on the treats. I haven’t eliminated them entirely. I mean I love my horses and life is short so why not give them something they enjoy. But what I do is give them treats either in neutral situations (like grooming) or after they have performed work. So I won’t give treats for horses o perform some groundwork task correctly, but I will give him a treat when we are completely done and I’ve walked him back to the pasture.

I have found that the horses are not as pushy as they used to be. So try cutting back on the treats with your horses.

These horse training ground tips and stories come from Eric Bravo and his horse trainers who offer natural horsemanship training at Gentle Horse Training. He has a set Of 7 Horse Training Videos That Teach You How To Train Horses Yourself Using Natural Horsemanship Techniques.

Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!

• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

• The Original Book of Horse Treats offers fun treat for horses. Recipes you can make at home for your Horse. Stuffed molasse apples, birthday cones, soups snacks, desserts and much more fun horsey food! All tried and true at the barn! Also includes a section on bran mashes, hoof oil, fly spray, and electrolytes!
  
  

Horse Training Ground - Getting Attention And Keeping It

Getting Attention And Keeping It

An important aspect of natural horsemanship training is getting attention and keeping the attention from your horse. A horse will focus on the leader of the herd for guidance. So-if your horse isn’t paying attention to you, then he is considering himself the leader. To succeed at natural horsemanship training, you need to be the leader-not your horse. Recently I got to see the benefits of Getting attention and keeping the attention of a horse in action.

Yesterday Sharon took her horse, Kelpie the Percheron mare, out for a walk on the road. I tagged along with Goose. We went for a walk as a sort of desensitization exercise since Kelpie is not used to being on the trail. Goose is quite spooky on the trail. I’ve ridden him a couple of times out there and got some practice using my emergency stop! Walking he did really good though and has actually come a long way toward being a more relaxed horse.

Watching Sharon with Kelpie gave us an opportunity to think about horse-human relations, dominance, and groundwork natural horsemanship training. Right off the bat Kelpie was doing two annoying things-she kept stopping to eat when we were walking along and would walk right past Sharon instead of keeping pace with her. Actually the latter is more than annoying since a horse that blows past you isn’t one that respects personal space making the horse dangerous to handle on the ground and unsafe to ride.

Sharon was bumping the horse pretty firmly with her lead rope when she would stop to eat, but the behavior just kept continuing. For the leading problem, I suggested Sharon throw in some stops and backing up when Kelpie would creep up on her, and to also change direction now and then. Sharon started doing this and was circling a lot in an effort to keep the horse from blowing past her.

This helped a little but the bad behavior continued. When we were stopped at one point Sharon was facing Kelpie, and I noticed that Kelpie was not looking at Sharon at all. This is a bad sign, if a horse you are working with is not paying attention to you with both eyes, that horse is not respecting you or looking to you for leadership. Kelpie was spending a lot of time looking at me, at Goose, and off in the field over to her left. But not a lot of time looking at Sharon.

When a horse is doing this you can make it uncomfortable for them to be directing their attention everywhere else but on you. You can do this by giving them a single bump with the lead rope every time they are looking off somewhere. The idea is to apply pressure that will bring the nose facing you so that you have the two eyes of the horse. You are facing the horse directly and suppose she is looking off to her left. Then you bump the rope in a sideways fashion to put pressure toward your left, which would be the right of the horse. If you’ve done it firmly enough this will encourage the horse to turn and look at you. Then you praise, either verbally or with a pet or both, but no treats!

Another good thing to do after you’ve got this down is to kind of walk back and forth in arcs in front of the horse. If the horse has decided your her leader, she will follow you with her eyes. If she hasn’t decided this, its a good opportunity to be bumping her nose toward you as you walk in this pattern.

Sharon spent some time practicing this but she is going to have to work at it to get that horse’s attention. I think she is also going to just have to get her energy up and be more firm with the horse. I asked if I could lead Kelpie for awhile, and I threw in some pretty firm backups and then Kelpie led real nice for me.

So anyway, the bottom line is you want your horse paying attention to you with both eyes when you’re working. If she isn’t doing so, she has her mind on something else other than you, like the coyote over in the next field. That isn’t a horse you want to be riding! You want a horse that you’re riding to be one that pays full attention to you.

Getting attention is a vital aspect of natural horsemanship training. We’re really training the person here and not the horse-he already knows to look at the leader of the herd for direction. What these exercises do is teach the person to become the leader of the herd for their own horse.

These horse training ground tips and stories come from Eric Bravo who offers natural horsemanship training at Gentle Horse Training. He has a set Of 7 Horse Training Videos That Teach You How To Train Horses Yourself Using Natural Horsemanship Techniques.

Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!
• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!

HorseTraining Ground - Walk Away

Horse Training Ground Tip: Walk Away

When asking a horse to do something, simply walking away from him is one of the most important tools at your disposal.

How can this be? Horses respond to pressure-whether its pressure from a rope or a rein, or from something he perceives to be a threat. By walking away from him you remove the pressure. You can use the simple act of turning and walking away to communicate to your horse that he did something you asked. This truly rewards the horse-taking the pressure of a horse releases that built in sense of apprehension and fear a horse has. Giving him a treat when he does something you want does not accomplish this.

Another Important Horse Training Ground Tip

You can not accomplish teaching a horse to think and control his emotions by giving her treats. We are all emotional, but horses are way more emotional than people are. A horse is built to run first and ask questions later-all emotion (fear) and no thought. By taking the pressure off when a horse feels threatened-but before he goes to escape-you teach a horse to stop and think. The horse will begin to control his emotions instead of feeling fear and escaping.

There are two steps you want to incorporate into any horse training ground that involves desensitization:

* Always be ready to back off when the horse feels threatened.
* Change the horses line of thinking. When the horse moves away from you, take control back by first asking him to look at you and second making his feet moves if he fails to give you his full attention.

I’ve written before about the importance of gaining and keeping the attention of your horse. This means having the horse look at you with both eyes described in my blog post Horse Training Ground - Getting Attention. While I describe an exercise using the lead rope to get your horse started with this behavior, you want to use kissing or clicking as a signal to have your horse look at you at all times-even without the lead rope. One way you can work on this is in the round pen without the lead rope or halter on your horse. Kiss to him to get his attention. When he looks at you, wait a second then walk away. You can also praise verbally, but the key idea is walking away to take the pressure off.

The example of touching a head shy horse is a great one that can be used over and over to illustrate these concepts. Here are some key ideas I incorporated after recently reading a book by John Lyons:

* If a horse pulls his head away from you when you try to pet him or touch his ear, he is telling you he is afraid you might hurt him.
* Don’t chase his head and force him to let you touch it.
* Start fast and slow down.

Let’s focus on that last point. If a horse is afraid of letting someone touch his ear, you aren’t going to have the most success desensitizing him by grabbing hold of his ear and holding it for 30 seconds. Instead, start gradually with quick touches. The first time he lets you touch the ear without pulling away, rub your hand over it quickly (taking a total of 1 second say). Then remove the pressure by walking away. Approach him again, and then touch more slowly-say 2 seconds.

By building on small steps like this, you teach the horse to relax and think. When you touch him he gets wound up for a second because he feels threatened, but you take the stimulus away before he decides to escape. Escaping doesn’t always mean galloping off to the hills-if he pulls his head away he is thinking escape. What we want is to teach him to feel his fear go up and then take the threatening stimulus away and let him feel the adrenaline drop back down again so he learns to relax.

Now when a horse does think move away or escape, we want to change his thought pattern. Here is how you do it. Suppose that a horse isn’t comfortable with you approaching him in the round pen. So if you’re 10 feet away and he is standing still, but you walk toward his withers, he walks away from you.

Timing is everything-you need to watch closely and figure out exactly when he is going to move off. Ideally, you want to gradually close the gap. So if he starts to move off at 8 feet of distance, walk up to him to 9 feet. Kiss to him to get him to look at you, then turn and walk away. This is just like touching his ear for just a second. Next time, approach to 8 feet and 7 inches and repeat.

Now suppose you approach but you see his muscles shifting so that he is about to turn away. Or what is another sign he is thinking escape? He simply turns his head away from you. What should you do then? You want to change his thought pattern. The first step is to ask him to look at you. So if you approach your horse and he turns away, kiss to ask him to look at you with both eyes. If he doesn’t comply, then re-establish control by making his feet move. Lyons advises giving the horse 2 seconds to look at you when you’ve asked for it. So if the horse turns away but won’t look back toward you when you kiss for 2 seconds, use your rope, whip, or carrot stick to send him out.

This approach goes with one of the best horse training tips: Eric Bravo’s “steal a thought” idea. Eric says that when the horse starts to move off steal the thought and make it your own by sending the horse out when he is thinking of moving off. This helps establish you as the leader. What I like about Lyon’s approach is adding the extra step of asking the horse for his attention first, so that you are getting him to think and communicate with you instead of just relying on his emotions. Read more about Eric Bravo expert training at Gentle Horse Training. He has a set Of 7 Horse Training Videos That Teach You How To Train Horses Yourself Using Natural Horsemanship Techniques.

Learn More All About Horses Here:

• Learn Horse Training Breaking Secrets. Five Horseback Riding Video Lessons Teach Natural Riding Without Bouncing, Safely Controlling Your Horse And Riding Bareback And Bridleless.
• Learn To Grow Gorgeous Horses! Now You Too Can Grow Long, Thick, Luxurious Horse Manes and Tails and Make Any Horse Stunningly Gorgeous Amazingly Fast!
• The Ultimate Guide To Pampering Your Horse provides a gold mine of ideas and inspiration. "For grooming, bathing, and hoof-care suggestions to homemade treats, toys, parties, games (and even costumes!) You'll find step-by-step directions for guaranteed horse-pleasers such as: Slop and Slurp Delight, Homemade Bug-Be-Gone, Edible Christmas Wreath, Mad Hatter Birthday Party and much more!